The Royal Mile, Edinburgh consist of four co-joined streets running from Edinburgh Caste (Castle Hill) to Holyrood Palace (Canongate). The route is Castle Hill; Lawnmarket; High Street; and Canongate. Dotted along the route are ‘closes’ which either lead to common shared courtyards or towards other areas of the city. (A list of the current closes). Before I carry on one question that is always asked is “How long is the Royal Mile?” – the correct answer is it is one Scots mile which equals 1.12 statute miles, just a tad longer that the statutory mile. (See Wikipedia). Our route would be High Street, Canongate turn left into Lochend Close, left into Calton Road, left up to New Street then right into Canongate and up to High Street where we started. Along the way we would explore some closes that take our fancy. The picture above was taken as we discovered some brass strips and this was the first time any of us noticed them. They are laid outside St Giles High Kirk and appeared to outline the extent where St Giles reached in the past. It was finally clarified by members of Historic Edinburgh Tours FB page. The strips indicate where tenements known as the Luckenbooths stood. This extract from the Wikipedia page gives detail of them: The Luckenbooths were a range of tenements which formerly stood immediately to the north of St. Giles’ Kirk in the High Street of Edinburgh from the reign of King James II in the 15th century to the early years of the 19th century. They were demolished in 1802 apart from the east end of the block which was removed in 1817.
Across from St Giles on the High Street we paused at our first close – Advocate’s Close. “It takes its name from Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, the last Advocate of Scotland in office during the time of the Restoration, Revolution and Union”. The close leads down to Cockburn Street. However, the attraction of this close is that it gives an Iconic view of Scott’s Monument, as can be seen from the picture on the right. We made our way
down the High Street toward the City Chambers passing the Statue of Alexander and Bucephalus and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Walking down we crossed the High Street and came to the Old Assembly Close, so named due to Dancing assemblies held between 1720-1766. It was originally called Little’s Close after the brothers, Clement and William Little (the former founded the University Library; the latter became Provost of Edinburgh in 1585).
It was also scene of Edinburgh’s most disastrous fire which destroyed all the buildings between here and Parliament Square on 17th November 1824. Looking through the close mouth we saw the McKenzie Building of the Faculty of Advocates a Category B listed building. Further down we
came to Tron Square. Although they were relatively modern buildings we came across a memorial clock in the square with this plaque. From the Square you either exit to Cowgate or make your way up Stevenlaws Close back to the High Street.
We chose the latter and decided it was time to have a coffee break. Warmed up with the coffee and bacon rolls we set off on our stroll down the High Street toward “John Knox House“. We were walking on the left hand side of the street and came across South Grey Close. Like many of the old closes it has been known by various names. It was once known as ‘Mint Close’ as it housed Scotland’s Royal Mint between 1574 and 1877. Our curiosity was piqued and turning into the close we made our way toward the Cowgate again. Our curiosity was rewarded when we discovered St Patrick’s RC Church. Built late 18th Cent. The church has been the place of worship for Episcopalian and today, RC. Within the church is located The National Shrine of the Venerable Margaret Sinclair. There is a small museum giving details of Margaret’s life. The small chaples and the main Alter or elaborate in the Episcopalian style. Susan (my partner) spotted a plaque that I had overlooked. I think the image gives sufficient detail of what it commemorates.
Leaving St Patricks we made our way to Cowgate before turning left into St Mary’s Street . St. Mary’s Street dates to the late 1860s when the former narrow and overcrowded St Mary’s Wynd, together with several closes to the east, was demolished as a result of the 1867 Edinburgh Improvement Act. One lintel caught my eye Some debate arose – Susan and Sid thought it was once q butcher’s shop. However, I suggested it was a temple to the Minotaur or a bullfighter training school. I think I was outvoted <sigh>. At the top of St Mary’s Street we rejoined the High Street. Across the junction St Mary’s became Jeffery Street. There is an Iconic photo opportunity here to take the Political Martyrs’ Monument and The Governor’s House.
Crossing St Mary’s Street we left High Street and entered Canongate. Once a separate burgh it was incorporated into Edi
nburgh City in 1856. Canongate has several notable buildings; Huntly House (the Museum of Edinburgh) and the People’s Story Museum (located in the historic Canongate Tolbooth.). One of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs is located in Canongate – White Horse Pub. The pub is also associated with the 1745 Jacobean Uprising. Whilst laying siege to Edinburgh Castle the Jacobeans made merry in the Whit Horse. I must say they had good taste them Jacobeans as the pub has a fine selection of malts. On the left hand side of Canongate is one of the hidden gems of Edinburgh. To access this little gem you go to Dunbar’s Close. Behind the normal looking close is a place of quiet and peace – a 17th century garden, Dunbar’s Garden, and it is open to the public at no charge. (who say’s we Scots are mean). Although it was winter the garden was well maintained and we plan to revisit it in Spring and Summer this year. Our stroll continued down Canongate, then into Lochend Close along Calton Road to New Street and thence back onto Canongate to head up the hill to our transport parked in Victoria Road/Victoria Crescent. Along the we did take more pictures but it is time to close this blog. My final picture for this blog is of Walter Francis Montagu Douglas Scott, 5th
Duke of Buccleuch, 7th Duke of Queensberry KC PC with St Giles High Kirk in the background. At then end of this blog you will find a link to the on line album containing 43 shots taken on the days stroll. Thank you for reading this blog, all comments welcome. you can see my work at Walter Hampson Fine Art or on my Facebook page at Walter Hampson Photography
Visit Historic Edinburgh Tours where Paul and Robert will be pleased to assist you.
Finally for those wishing to trace our route here is the link to Google Maps
